|包装尺寸||13.1 x 11.3 x 5.4 cm; 450 克|
- 配有可旋转公头 G1/4 英寸。
EK-泄漏测试仪是一种快速、*地测试液体冷却环可能泄漏的可能性。 虽然传统的泄漏测试工作，但需要几个小时才能检测到极小的泄漏，然后事情就会变得混乱。 EK-泄漏测试仪几乎可以立即完成工作。
本体为数控加工铝的坚固件。 一端配有可旋转公头 G1/4 英寸连接端口，因此可以直接拧入液体冷却环的任何标准端口。 该测量仪专为液体冷却循环测试而定制，明确标记了测试的*压力。 测试仪的另一侧与一个阀门连接，以确保没有空气通过测试单元本身逸出。 还附带用于加压环的小泵。
请记住，测量表上的预定义**大压力仅适用于 EK 产品。 EK 无法*非 EK 产品在仪表上标记的*区下故障。
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The tester does not come with instructions so you must get them from EKWB website. Don’t assume the tester is user friendly since the color indicators on the dial face are largely useless; EKWB instructs you to test different components at different pressures. This also means you could likely save yourself the cost of buying this device if you had the proper adapter for your automotive tester.
My tester did not have any leaks in the gauge or adapter. My only issue is the valve doesn’t open or close to any cardinal direction; and its more like a 1/6 turn valve than a quarter. This says more about the quality control of this product than anything else. All said it works.
I have been using the leak tester to verify the integrity of my water loops before filing. There are no instructions in the box, so you have to figure out how the it all works together. Once you look at it for a bit you can figure it out, but a minimal set of instructions would be nice. The well marked gauge provides clear indication of where the pressure for the system should be at. Things I would improve. 1) Directions included with the tester. 2) Some of these have been known to leak out of the box, Check you tester on a radiator or other simple in/out item before you check your whole loop to make sure the tester itself is not leaking. This can be fixed with a little plumbers tape on the gauge where it meets the body. 3) It would be nice if it had a marker needle. Meaning a needle that stayed at the pressure you put the tester to that didn't reset until you emptied the unit. That would make it easier to check for leaks. Overall, speeds up building water loops. Just a few design tweaks would make it perfect.
The gauge is hard to read though, a black needle on a black dial. I opened mine up and painted the needle white with a paint marker. This made all the difference, but should not have been necessary. Crude before-and-after photo attached.
I have worked on my build for about 2 weeks now, and finally got all the hard tubing cut, bent, and in place. I was so excited I almost forgot to leak test. I slapped on the leak tester on my fill port, and no matter how hard I pumped the needle wouldn't move at all. I was sure all my tubes were in place and properly sealed with fittings, so I started looking around for issues. I found my drain valve was set to open (that would've been a nightmare to fix). However that wasn't the issue.
After being stumped, I just did the hard thing -- tear all the tubes off and start testing each individual component for issues. Didn't find anything. On a side note, I should have done that from the start, before putting any tubes on. So i start adding tubes one at a time, leak test for a few seconds, then add another. I got to my radiator tubes and wouldn't you know it, of the 4 tubes, 2 of them had major leak issues. I think it was a combination of not having them sized quite right and not entering the fitting at a perfect perpendicular angle (unfortunately I ran out of tubing so I was trying to make what I had cut work -- lesson learned!).
Without this I would have leaked all over my case and components, as the radiator fittings are positioned at the top. I can't recommend this item enough.
As a side note, someone else mentioned painting the needle white and I highly recommend to do so. The cover for the pressure gauge pulls right off (it's not glued or sealed or anything), just give it a little twist and pull. I used a silver sharpie, worked like a charm.
The only real downside is that if you do have pressure loss, it’s harder to pinpoint the source.