This is the book that changed my life. Literally. Before I xeroxed a copy of a copy of this 3 part series, I was fumbling miserably, but still determined to crack the nut that is pattern drafting for men's tailored garments. Of the 3 part series, this is essential. The other 2 volumes ramble on about how to set up your workroom, do your accounting, etc. Dull Reading.
The Drafts are excellent. Easy to follow if you are familiar with drafting formulas for men's tailored garments. Most importantly, they work. They fit: the shoulder, neckline, armhole, balance, etc are all correct. In addition there is a section on fitting problems. Why they are happening and how to to solve them. This is the section which really opened a door for me. Too many books pass through fitting too quickly, without answering the issues that can bring one to tears. Now one can learn the reason for the excess fold of fabric at the back of the armscye is caused by taking in too much at the side seam. It is solved by taking more out at the center back, and on and on.
I've been making men's tailored garments for 30 years, and cutting and fitting them for over 20. I consider this book essential to anyone interested in men's tailoring; modern or costume. I just purchased this book and set my beat up xerox aside.
Originally published in 1928 in three volumes. These deal with every aspect of the tailoring and clothing trade. Extremely well illustrated with photographs and many helpful diagrams and detailed instructions for the design and construction of various garments. The contents of Volume 1 include: Tailoring as a Vocation - Gentlemen's Garment Cutting - Trouser Cutting - Vest Cutting - Measures and Measuring - Coat Cutting - Over Garments - Cutting for Corpulent Figures - Trying On - Manipulation - Anatomy for Tailors - Measuring for Ladies Garments - Skirt Cutting - Coat Cutting - Breeches Cutting - Colour and Clothes - Juvenile Garments - Alterations - Collar Cutting - Catering for American Clients - West End Models - Draft of West End Morning Coat - Scales of Measurements etc. Many of the earliest books on fashion and clothing , particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. Home Farm Books are republishing many of these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.