Irwin Industrial Tool 3111001 Carbon Door Lock Installation Kit 蓝色 1
- Carbon hole saws for wood doors
- Fits all interior and exterior doors
- Self centering jig fits all common door widths
- Adjustable for both 2-3/8-Inch and 2-3/4-Inch backsets
- Includes bolt plate template and router bit
Carbon 门锁安装工具套装用于木门，只需轻松 3 步即可完成安装，套装包括：2 个 Carbon 带轴筒锯、1 个 2 面自动定心夹具，可适应 2-3/8 英寸的锁芯距和 2-3/4 英寸的锁芯距、1 个蝶形铰链模板、用于面板的刨槽机导向器和铣刀，每个面板一件。
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Bottom line, don't get this kit unless you have or want to buy a different, quality hole saw to finish the job.
PS-- Do make sure you have a decent chisel (I bought a set of 3 Stanley ones also on Amazon for less than 10 bucks), as you will need to do some basic chisel work with this job.
As with anything else, you will get better with each door you hang. Perhaps a more professional (and costly) kit would keep you from some of the mistakes, but if you are careful, you can hang a door and nobody will be able to tell you're not experienced.
I'll do the review on a piece-by-piece basis and try to explain what mistakes you should avoid and why the kit does not prevent your making the mistake. Hopefully armed with this info, you will make fewer mistakes than I did, or at least make different mistakes,
Small hole saw: this was the worst part of this kit -- it has metal flashing left over from poor manufacturing that prevented it from being assembled properly. I had to grind out the flashing to get it to fit together at all, but then it wobbled quite noticeably. It turned out not to matter too much as the hole it cut was fairly round. In any case it was invisible, so didn’t matter, and it was never so bad as to damage the door. It was just a bit unpleasant holding the drill that wobbled worse than a Weeble®.
Large hole saw: This fit together much better than the small holesaw, but the drill bit was very dull and required a lot of force to get it to operate as a pilot hole. The little bit of wobble did cause the plastic jig to move around, but if you go slow at first, make sure you’re centered and not expecting the plastic guide to do too much for you, you can get a round hole in the right place and straight through. Be careful though. Back the hole saw out several times as it contacts the door to make sure you are still centered and not at an angle.
Main hole jig: This is a well thought out, but flimsy guide system. Do not expect it to force your tools to the proper position and angles — its a guide that helps you but does not prevent your tool from cutting in the wrong place. You need to hold the drill steady when using this jig, the jig will not do that for you. The biggest problem I had with with jig/guide was with the latch hole and mortise positioning. On such a small dimension (1.5”) a small misplacement amounts to a large miss. The jig has two plastic spring-loaded guides to align the latch hole in the middle of the edge of the door. These plastic “springs” do not force you into the exact middle of the edge. You can easily be off ~1/16” and that amounts to a large miss from the center. Even if you mark the center to try to minimize this error, its difficult to drive the screws into the edge without the jig getting slightly off. This is where the system needs beefing up more (Irwin, if you’re reading…). For the large hole, it would be nice if the jig were more stout, but small errors in the large hole placement don’t amount to much since the door knob bezel covers it up.
Latch mortise template and router bit: This was absolutely the best part of this whole kit. The little router bit worked incredibly well with the latch mortise template, and chiseling out the remainder of the wood from the latch mortise was trivial. I encountered two problems in this area. First, the holes for the template pegs are the same holes left over from the main hole jig when its mounted. This is convenient, but as I mentioned above, it’s all-too-easy to be slightly off in the positioning due to the springy, flimsy nature of the edge positioning. So its all-too-easy to be off in the positioning of the mortise template and its difficult to correct issues since the holes in the wood are so close to where you might want to put new holes (for better alignment). Get yourself some good wood tooth picks and glue, or some small dowel pegs. The other problem with the mortise template is that its easy to flub the bit depth when using a drill as a router. It only happened once, but I flubbed the bit depth and compromised my template. I was able to keep using it, but be sure to always press in on the drill and don’t let it lift out of the template track.
Hinge mortise template: The hinge mortise template worked a whole lot better than I thought it would. It definitely takes some skill and I can guarantee you will get better with each hinge you mortise. But you will also make new mistakes on each hinge you mortise. One tip is to make sure you clamp your door to something solid behind the spot where you will be chiseling. Also, cut the outline of your hinge mortise with a box cutter. Finally, be aware that higher-quality solid-core doors will behave very differently than hollow core doors — the wood on the edges of solid core doors is just stronger, I discovered. The wood grain also resists clean cutting and chiseling in the stronger doors. Be patient with the stronger doors — make your outline cuts as good as you can before using the chisels.
However… if you are hanging higher quality doors, you should seriously consider a different approach for the hinge mortise. I wish I had a router and router template for the hinge mortise. The chisel approach is just too error prone and labor intensive. I wish Irwin had made a template for the hinge mortise that would allow using the router bit they provided. As mentioned above, the latch mortise router bit and template were absolutely the best part of this kit, it would have been nice if the same (or similar) bit could have been used for the hinge mortise. (I guess the hinge mortise depth is shallower than the latch mortise depth, so it would require a different bit, but I definitely think this would be worth paying for vis-a-vis the 19th century chiseling approach).